Reminiscing today on my way back home, I sat in a powder blue seat, leaning out towards the center of the car so I could see all the way down the at least 150 feet of train as it flexed and curved around bends and up and down the gradual dips and slopes in the track. When I first got here I was a little disappointed in the fewness of lines as compared to the New York subway, and the presence of human drivers instead of the completely automated system like I dreamed of, but the MRT still manages to bring me pleasure when I ride it. I smiled when all the vertical handrails lined up for a second then unaligned making a cool moving geometric pattern, then I became self conscious of my childish behavior and slid back towards the window. Not as much to watch by the window, other than the dark walls of the tunnel zipping by. But if you look down at the right angle you can see little evenly spaced red lights ticking by every 5 seconds.
I thought back to where I had been tonight, Sushi Express, I'd really stuffed myself pretty well I thought, I could even feel the pressure in my stomach telling me that I was very full. Sitting there, eating Sushi, watching little orange plates slowly pass by. Each one covered with a little transparent dome to seal the sushi inside away from dozens of human faces that would eye it, the hands that would reach for it then pull back when they saw something better coming down the line. I cleared 12 plates tonight, I had plenty of room around me to stack them, to pick one piece from this one or that one, a little ginger to cleanse the pallet, then another piece of fish or broccoli, like my own personal buffet. I was sitting near the glass door, so people could see me as they walked by on the sidewalk, when I had first arrived I was seated across from another white guy with a goatee about my age, with only the little sushi conveyor belt and a little divider between us so I could just see his eyes and the top of his head. Us white guys never acknowledge each other here in Taipei, and he left after about 10 minutes anyway.
At the next MRT stop a young family with an energetic 4 year old boy walked on. The train wasn't very full at this hour, almost everyone was sitting. I wondered if the family was going to take the two "Old People Seats" in front of me, since they are also reserved for mothers with small children. I saw them look at it, then I wondered if mom would put the boy in the seat closest to me, my seat was against the wall at a right angle to the end "Old People Seat" so that my knees came close to touching the side of it. A few times when I've been in similar situations, moms put the kids closest to me, but the kids never like sitting that close to a stranger as strange as me, they always start crawling up on their mothers until the mom moves them somewhere else. I always think this is funny because I remember being that little kid, plus the kid, where ever he is sitting ends up staring at me so I can make faces at him. This mom, however, took the seat closest to me, but the little boy quickly bounced out of the seat and went to go stand in the center clinging to the vertical bar. Then the dad sits in the seat next to me, sealing me in so that I'll have to step over his and her legs to get off the train. But instead of feeling trapped I feel like I'm temporarily part of their little family, I'm waiting for the little kid to starting eying me. The mom says something to the little boy who is clinging to the pole, I used to like the idea of standing on a moving vehicle when I was little too. Then I hear the mom start to count in Chinese: Yi... Er.... San.... the boy is in his seat. I can't help chuckling to myself, mom's all over the world do the counting thing I guess. I had no idea until now. As I watched this little parenting scene I could still feel the pressure in my tummy from the Sushi I had scarfed down.
As I ate my sushi, the sushi chef towards the center of the restaurant started yelling something in Chinese through his mask to the cashier behind me. I realized after a second that I might be able to understand a little bit of what he was saying if I listened. No not much. I think I did hear "I'm going to" in there, but nothing else. Hearing him yell across the restaurant reminded me of eating with Pu Dixiong after service a few weeks ago.
At a little "food shop" as they're called, where I ordered beef noodle soup, the guy in the front at the register really liked to yell things to the people in the back. At first I didn't notice, since it's not uncommon here to hear yelling, but after a bit I laughed a little and tried to ask Pu Dixiong if they yelled in restaurants in Korea. He thought about it for a second and said no not really, not like that. Then he asked me if I wanted KeLa (Cola), since having something to drink is a rarity here, I said "Oh yes", even though I don't' really like Cola. He came back with two half height cans of Coca Cola Classic, I laughed a little at this too, not having seen many half height cans of Coke before. Actually it seemed like a good idea, I never want the whole thing anyway. I looked up at a poster on the wall by our table, it had a picture of a coke can in the middle. Around it in a circle of different kinds of food, a circular array of meals you might find in Taiwan. Pu Dixiong saw me staring at it, and pointed to one of the Chinese words and said in English "Marriage" indicating that the poster was telling people that Coke goes good with different kinds of food. I instantly saw the reason that this poster existed, you'd never see a poster like it in America, telling you that Coke can go with food. In Taipei most of the "food shops" and restaurants I've been to don't serve drinks by default, I think a lot of them serve soup afterwards, but not always. Just think how much money Coke isn't making here, there are probably tens of thousands of these food shops in this city alone, what if all of them asked "do you want a coke with that?"
But I certainly didn't want a coke with my Sushi, I made myself another cup of tea. Sushi Express has little hot water spouts and little boxes of tea bags at each stool position on the long sushi bar that snakes around the length of the sushi conveyor belt. "What brilliance!" I thought, "Sushi and technological innovation all combined into one experience!" Maybe I love sushi too much. I thought about what Chinese words I could use to tell the employees that I was done and wanted to pay now. I stacked my little orange plates and counted them. But before I had a chance to try out my Chinese a teenage bus boy asked me if I was done in Chinese, so all I got to say was "Dui" (Correct). Then, as he counted my plates, I said at half volume in Chinese, "Me want pay." But he didn't seem to notice as he went to ring it up on the register. But that's OK, I learned a measure word for Sushi tonight, it was the same one that I learned for Stinky Tofu. "Fen" which I guess means "a set of something."
On the subway the little boy had already given me a good stare, and I gave one back at him. I noticed he had a small but deep dimple on his lower right cheek, which he flashed when he tried to tickle his mom, the tickle didn't work. So he tried again a few minutes later, this time I think he got a smile, but mom's aren't that ticklish I guess. I noticed my stop was coming up, I leaned forward, but I didn't want to leave my little family of three quite yet, after giving me another stare he tried tickling his mom again. OK now I wondered if I was going to have to crawl over dad's legs to get out, but once I stood up mom and dad noticed the 31 year old American son they didn't know they had and pivoted their hips to the side to give me an opening to get out, like a little gate made of legs.
When I "alighted the train," to coin the term used by that familiar English speaking female voice of the MRT system, I looked around at my home MRT station. I always have to look around me to figure out which way to go next, there are 9 exits, five at the north end, and four at the south end, sometimes I've ended up at the wrong end. Both ends look the same and I can't ever seem to see the exit numbers from the bottom level. But today I remembered which direction my train had come from, the south, and so I walked south. Tonight I knew where I was going, like a natural, like I've been living here for a few months. Someday I'll be able to stand without holding the handrails, like a surfer, an MRT surfer.